If u really wanna go "back to roots" on this subculture music-wise u gotta learn what u can about pub-rock and similar bands in the mid-1970s and shit google up the origins of .The New York Dolls, Pure Hell, The Zulu Nation, and Sex (the store) on the King's Road in England.
As far as the look...a good spot ta start would be the biggest influence on the most recognizable punk look, which comes outta mostly Black & Puerto-Rican 1970s street crews' styles, especially around The Bronx, who was in turn influenced by the older bikers, but they was too young or ain't have the mentality needed to join biker gangs.
Afrikka Bambataa and Malcolm McLaren worked together a lil bit while McLaren was in the U.S. & they had wanted to blend the hobbies & lifestyles of street level youth together, even more than they did with the creation of hip-hop & punk rock. For some reason, that ain't happen. If it had went off the way they planned, "punk rock" would likely be a part of hip-hop...and in the 1st wave, punk rockers around the initial hip-hop scene was known as p-boys and p-girls in some circles, and thier lifestyle was considered by some to be within the elements of hip hop.
The other big outside influence on Malcolm McLarens' "punk fashion meal ticket", was French Situationist youth. After a trip to France, that brought a group of kids from Paris back to England to see more of punk rock, thier way of dress "spread like wild-fire" in the UK punk scene...which was the 2nd source to "re-introduce" the black leather biker jacket as a symbol of rebellion. Of course, this is ironic, considering that it was made for military use, but that's another story.
To the best of my knowledge, this is a true, albiet incomplete summary of some of the main influences on 1st wave punk rock that stand out today. All are invited to drop more knowledge & add on to this post, or correct any errors, if you can back it up with proof.
The inspiration for this post, was a passing thought...that "punk rock" ain't, and never was "from the UK"; but actually on many many many levels, from mostly Black origins instead. We created rock, we created the styles seen most often today that are called punk rock, and we continue to set the trends, which are co-opted into the mainstream, as punk rock, hip-rock, punk-hop and any of these other stupid names they come up with today.
Finally...the obsession with punk rock music, or dressing a certain way is an unnecessary, but often fun choice. The fact that neither of these is NECCESARY to be a lifestylist in this sub-culture, invalidates the labels.
For now, no "new label" has been found...and many believe that a year from now, or maybe two, this "Black Rock Kids" trend will fade away...leaving the lifestylists in a position of having to constantly explain themselves, and even physically defend themselves, like in the past. I, for one, don't label myself as a punk rocker, and I haven't for years. Personally, my mindset fit into the subculture to a large extent years before I knew what punk rock was. I believe that to be the "safest" mindset, because depending on somebody or something else for your own self-validation is foolish.
I see more and more kids calling themselves "Afro Punks", not realizing, that that is the name of a movie & a company. You don't own "Afro-Punk"...nor do you need a label. When the trend dies down...those who stand on thier own without relying on a label for self-esteem will be the ones in the best shape.
If you MUST pick a label...I suggest the one that was around even before Rock n' Roll was acceptable outside of the ghetto. "Rockers"...plain and simple. It doesn't even mean that you are obsessed with Rock n' Roll. I will try to dig up more history on the Rockers, which is about as tough as finding Black punk rockers on the internet 15 years ago...if you find it first, I ask that u add on to this thread or send me a message. Now go fuck shit up your way.